New York’s Finger Lakes Wine Region—The Wine World’s Best Kept Secret, Part I

OK, most New Yorker’s have at least heard about this area, but in New York City,
knowledge of local wineries is generally limited to Long Island, notwithstanding the
superb efforts of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation’s indefatigable and
comprehensive PR efforts.

Let’s start in 1951 when Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ph.D. and professor of plant sciences in
Russia, emigrated to the U.S. and arrived with $40 in his pocket. He spoke 6 languages,
English not being one of them.

After washing dishes for several years in New York City, he landed a job as a janitor at
Cornell University’s Geneva Experimental Station in the Finger Lakes area (about an
hour and a half south of Rochester and Syracuse in the western part of the state.) While
there, he tried in vain to persuade anyone who could understand his broken English that
the great vinifera grapes such as Riesling and Pinot Noir could be planted in that area.
The only vines that existed then were native vines such as Concord and Catawba, and
hybrids such as Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir.

He chanced to meet Charles Fornier, who was president of Gold Seal Winery. They
spoke in French and Dr. Frank impressed him to such an extent, Fornier hired him on the
spot as the director of research at Gold Seal.

Frank knew he could grow vinifera grapes in New York, and Fornier encouraged him to
start. After working for Gold Seal for some time, Frank started his own Vinifera Cellars
on Keuka Lake in 1962. Without him, the New York wine industry might be 20 or 30
years behind where it is today. Frank died in 1985, and “The Wine Spectator” named
him one of the 54 most influential people in the wine industry, including him in their Hall
of Fame.

My wife and I spent a wonderful day and evening at Lake Keuka, visiting three of the
most famous and important wineries: Bully Hill, Heron Hill and Dr. Frank’s Vinifera
Wine Cellars.

Bully Hill’s story, although not of the same historical importance, is as interesting and
even more entertaining than Dr. Frank’s. Walter S. Taylor, a natural prankster and
promoter—and direct descendant of P.T. Barnum—was fired from the leviathan family
business, Taylor Wine Company, for saying some unflattering things about the company
to reporters in San Francisco.

This all led Taylor to start his own winery, Bully Hill, on Keuka Lake. Taylor Wine
Company subsequently was sold to Coca-Cola, which promptly won a court order
enjoining him from using the name Taylor on his labels. It was the best thing they could
have done for him.

Taylor’s promotional genius sprang to life. His new labels read Walter S. ______. On
one, Bully Hill Love My Goat Red, a quote above the hilarious-looking billy goat reads,
“They have my name and heritage, but they didn’t get my goat.” His supporters loved it.
Taylor, a fan of French-American hybrids, died in 2001.

A perfect day would be to start at Heron Hill for a tasting, on to Dr. Frank’s for another
tasting, and then to Bully Hill for the final tasting and dinner at their superb restaurant,
which is run by Mrs. Walter S. Taylor. And you’ll be a short hop to Hammondsport,
N.Y. for overnight.

My favorite wines are as follows:

Heron Hill: Dry Riesling, Semi-Dry Riesling, Eclipse White, Eclipse Red and Riesling
Ice Wine

Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Cellars: Dry Riesling, Semi-Dry Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
Cabernet Franc and Rkatsiteli (r katz i tell` e)—possibly the oldest grape varietal, found
planted on Mount Ararat

Bully Hill: Seyval Blanc, Baco Noir, Love My Goat Red (available in semi-sweet and
sweet) and Pinot Noir

Next—The wines of Seneca Lake!

Tagged as: Finger Lakes